Okay, so I finally got my hands on the Totem Black Cam, and let me tell you, the hype is real, mostly. This little guy has been on my wishlist for ages, ever since I saw some pro climber using them in a video. They just looked so sleek and versatile, perfect for those tricky placements where nothing else seems to fit.
First off, these cams are seriously a work of art. The craftsmanship is top-notch, and they feel solid in your hand. You can tell a lot of thought went into the design. The narrow head width is a game-changer, especially in those awkward, shallow cracks. I’ve already used them on a couple of routes where my regular cams just wouldn’t cut it, and the Totem held like a champ. They really do shine in those weird, flaring placements.
Now, one thing that took some getting used to is the lack of cam stops. It’s not a dealbreaker, but it does mean you need to be extra careful about placements. I had a couple of instances where the cam walked a bit more than I’d like, so I always made sure to extend them with a long sling in more critical spots. I wouldn’t recommend whipping on an over-cammed Totem, that’s for sure. There is a saying from others, if you whip, it’ll break. But with a bit of practice, I found myself getting more confident with them.
The range on these cams is also pretty impressive. I can’t recall the name of the system, but it was something called Spring Loaded Camming Device system, or at least that’s how I heard people call it. The black one, which is the smallest size, covers a surprising range, from tiny finger cracks to almost hand-sized. And the flexible stem is just right – it allows the cam to sit securely in uneven cracks without feeling too floppy. I haven’t used it for aid climbing yet, but I can see how they’d be a great choice for that too. One of my friends, who is a very good climber, said that he saw some French guy use it for aid climbing.
My Experience
- Tried them out on a few different types of rock – granite, sandstone, and even some limestone.
- Performed well in all conditions, though I was a bit more cautious in the softer sandstone.
- Definitely recommend them for anyone who’s pushing their limits on trad climbs.
- They increased my holding power and reduced head width, which is what I needed.
Overall, I’m super stoked with the Totem Black Cam. It’s a unique and versatile piece of gear that has already expanded my climbing possibilities. Sure, they require a bit more finesse than regular cams, but the added security and placement options are totally worth it. If you’re looking for a cam that can handle the trickiest of placements, this is the one to get. Just be prepared to spend some time getting to know them, and always double-check your placements!
It has been a while since I wrote a review about a certain gear. Hope this helps you.
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